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A analysis of Pantone for a colorful autumn and winter

Autumn colors are the latest trends ... but at Pantone they gave them their own touch ... with an unusual mix of deep, light and bright colors ... reminiscent of whirling autumn leaves (red and green hues) in the cold evening air ( blue and purple hues).

autumn night

Let us have a closer look at it:

from red to warm orange: 3 shades

  • a deep brown red (Red Pear),
  • a bright vermilion red (Valiant Poppy)
  • and a pronounced bright orange yellow (Russet Orange)

from yellow to green: 4 shades

  • a bright green yellow (Ceylon Yellow),
  • a light greenish yellow (Limelight),
  • a subdued medium moss green (Martini Olive) and
  • a rich blue-green (Quetzal Green)

from bright blue to soft purple: 3 shades

  • a bright Capri blue (Nebulas Blue),
  • a deep purple ultramarine (Ultra Violet) and
  • a light purple (Crocus Petal)

Fashion colors Fall 2018

and get your classics out of the closet with:

  • navy blue (Sargasso Sea),
  • creamy greyish white (Tofu),
  • light silver gray (Quiet Gray) and
  • soft caramel brown (Meerkat).

Enjoy a colorful autumn!

Thank you for choosing your beads and findings @ http://dunebeads.com/en/ !

Happy day, see you soon!

LEARN and CREATE – the tubular herringbone weave on a base of ladder stitch - part 1

The herringbone stitch exists in several versions, among others:

  • a flat version,
  • a tubular version and
  • a twisted tubular version

and results in a sleek fish bone shaped pattern.

Traditionally, the tubular herringbone is build with an even number of beads, which may be increased and decreased, on a base round in ladder stitch. A necklace in herringbone weave can be worn as it is, be decorated or hold a pendant. The stitch is supple enough to be used for a bracelet or bangle and is fairly quickly created.

tubular herringbone

Challenge:

Although it is a relatively easy stitch, you need to pay special attention to the step-up and control the thread tension.

Supplies for the tubular herringbone stitch:

  • 8/0 beads or 3x3 mm fire-polished beads in 3 colors: color A, color B and color C
  • needle, thread and scissors
  • toggle and beading mat.

Weaving instructions for the regular tubular herringbone weave:

  • for starters, take a generous length of thread and create a foundation in ladder stitch in the following colors: 2x color A, 2x color B and 2x color C
  • if needed, you find the instructions of the ladder stitch @ http://dunebeads.com/en/blog/month/2018-5
  • foresee a +/- 15 cm tail thread

tubular herringbone - start in ladder stitch

  • to connect the end with the beginning go with the needle UP through the 1st bead and DOWN through the very last bead so that those beads sit next to each other and form a circle
  • to start the 2nd round, go back UP through the bottom of the 1st A bead 
  • pick up 2x color A and go DOWN through the top of the next bead in color A

tubular herringbone - round 2 start position to add 2 beads

  • go UP through the bottom of the 1st color B

tubular herringbone - get in position to add 2nd color

  • pick up 2x color B and go DOWN through the top of the next color B

tubular herringbone - round 2 adding 2nd color

  • go UP through the bottom of the 1st color C

tubular herringbone - get in position to add 3rd color

  • pick up 2x color C and go DOWN through the top of the next color C

tubular herringbone - round 2, add 3rd color

  • as you can see, the beads in the same color form a column but sit slightly askew to form a herringbone pattern

SEE - part 2

LEARN and CREATE – the tubular herringbone weave on a base of ladder stitch - part 2

 CONTINUATION: the regular tubular herringbone weave

  • **to start a new round, make a step-up by going UP through the 1st bead in color A on the same level, as well as through the A color on top of it

tubular herringbone - step-up to round 3

  • to summarize: in the step-up you work on 2 levels while in all the other cases you work only on 1 level
  • note: the step-up happens always in the 1st bead in color A and you add always 2 beads in the same color A
  • pick up 2x color A and go DOWN through the top of the next bead in color A

tubular herringbone - round 3, add 1st color

  • go UP through the bottom of the 1st bead in color B

tubular herringbone - round 3, ready for 2nd color

  • pick up 2x color B and go DOWN through the top of the next bead in color B
  • go UP through the bottom of the 1st color C
  • pick up 2x color C and go DOWN through the top of the next bead in color C**
  • continue **... ** till you have reached the desired length and stop after making a step-up

tubular herringbone - step-up for each round

  • note: initially there will be quite some distance between the three columns, but keep on going and with each round the columns will get closer together

tubular herringbone - columns

  • as the top beads stay relatively loose at the end, you will need to close the tube-shape before adding a toggle by going up and down through the thread path of the top rows

Hints:

  • for a thinner rope, work with a base of 4 beads or a smaller size beads
  • if you create a rope in a single color lay out little stacks of beads in advance, so you can easily see when you have reached the end of a round and have the make a step-up
  • you can also make short tubular herringbone pieces to use as individual beads
  • be creative and enjoy !

tubular herringbone stitch in fire-polished beads

Thank you for choosing your beads and findings @ http://dunebeads.com/en/ !

Happy day, see you soon!

LEARN and CREATE – the Russian Spiral Stitch or the “Collapsed” Tubular Netting Stitch - part 1

The Russian spiral is a variation of the netting stitch you used to create :

and consists of collapsed diamond shapes. As a consequence, the Russian spiral is supple and can easily be used to create bracelets and necklaces.

Russian spiral - golden blue

Challenge:

The use of faceted beads in three colors will make it easier to understand the structure, but you will have to pay special attention when adding the colors as they will vary in each round.

Russian spiral in three colors

Supplies for the Russian spiral rope:

  • 3x3 mm fire-polished Czech beads in three colors to create a smooth color wave: color A, color B and color C
  • suggestion: choose color B in 'stronger' more pronounced shade
  • 11/0 seed beads in a contrasting color to accentuate the spiral shape
  • needle, thread and scissors
  • toggle and beading mat.

Weaving instructions for the Russian spiral rope:

  • pick up 2x seed beads, 1x color A, 2x seed beads, 1x color B, 2x seed beads, 1x color C

Russian spiral - start

  • leave a generous tail thread of about 15 to 20 cm
  • create a circle by going back thru all the beads and continue moving on till the middle of the second pair of seed beads

Russian spiral - base

  • to summarize, go thru all the beads and thru the 4 following beads

Russian spiral - ready for round 2

  • round 2: pick up 1x color B and 2x seed beads and skip a seed bead and fire-polished bead to pass the needle thru the first seed bead of the next pair of seed beads in order to reach the middle of that pair of seed beads

Russian spiral - round 2, add color B

  • push the beads upwards and tighten your thread
  • pick up 1x color C and 2x seed beads and pass the needle thru the 1st seed bead of the following pair, this corresponds to the seed bead behind the fire-polished bead, to reach the middle of that pair of seed beads

Russian spiral - round 2, add color C

SEE part 2

LEARN and CREATE – the Russian Spiral Stitch or the “Collapsed” Tubular Netting Stitch - part 2

CONTINUATION: the Russian Spiral Stitch

  • pick up 1x color A and 2x seed beads and pass the needle thru the first seed bead behind the fire-polished bead

Russian spiral - round 2, add color A

  • check that you have lined up a fire-polished bead on top of the previous round in the same color, but slightly offset/diagonal
  • as you may notice, you always pick up the fire-polished bead in the color of the next bead beneath it
  • to access the next round, you will make an easy 2 bead step-up by going thru the next fire-polished bead and seed bead which are situated slightly higher

Russian spiral - step-up to round 3

  • notice also, that due to the step-up, you will skip a color in the series to start the next round, so check always that you pick up the color of the bead ahead
  • round 3: having reached the middle of a pair of seed beads, you pick up 1x color C and 2x seed beads and go thru the first seed bead of the next set

Russian spiral - round 3, add color C

  • pick up 1x color A and 2x seed beads and go thru the first seed bead of the next set
  • pick up 1x color B and 2x seed beads and go thru the first seed bead of the next set
  • make the step-up by going thru the next fire-polished bead and the seed bead behind it
  • up till now, you have applied the following color scheme for the fire-polished bead: A-B-C, B-C-A, C-A-B – you will repeat this scheme throughout your work

Russian spiral - color scheme

  • to start the 4th round, skip a color in the series and pick up 1x color A and 2 seed beads
  • the color scheme of the 4th round is identical to the one of the 1st round
  • to start the 5th round, skip a color in the series and pick up 1x color B and 2 seed beads
  • continue until you reach the desired length and stop after you made a step-up
  • attach a toggle with seed beads in three points of the top of the rope to center it correctly
  • and enjoy!

Choose your beads and findings @ http://dunebeads.com/en/czech-fire-polished-round-beads !

Russian spiral - spiral in seed beads and 3mm FP

Do not forget: practice makes perfect. Happy day, see you soon!

LEARN and CREATE – the flat brick stitch on a foundation of ladder stitch - part 1

For beginners, the great thing about the flat brick stitch is that it is easy and versatile. It has in common with the peyote stitch that it stacks the beads nicely on top of each other, especially if you work with Delica beads, but it differs in the following :

  • the bead's direction is vertical, meaning the hole of the bead is vertically and not horizontally lined up
  • the same stitch applies as well to an even number as an odd number of beads
  • the beads are attached by weaving your working thread around the thread of the preceding row, so you do not needle through the beads to affix them

and yes, you are right in thinking that this type of “wall” of bead-bricks needs a strong foundation, that is why you start with the ladder stitch and build up with the flat brick stitch.
Do not be scared off, whether you go through a bead or beneath and around a thread, in both cases the strength of your work depends on the sturdiness of the thread.

Brick stitch - adding a bead - side view

Challenge:

  • As your workpiece is held together by thread, controlling the thread tension will be paramount.

Supplies for a striped bracelet in flat brick:

  • 11/0 Delica beads in 3 colors: color A, color B and color C
  • OR 8/0 Japanese seed beads in 3 colors: color A, color B and color C
  • needle, thread and scissors
  • toggle and beading mat.

Weaving instructions for the ladder stitch:

  • the foundation in ladder stitch in color A: pick up and string two beads, leaving a generous tail thread to hold your work and stitch in later
  • hold the two beads side by side – top and bottom vertically - and pass back through the first bead, this is the one closest to the tail

ladder stitch - starting

ladder stitch - joining the first beads

  • to add a bead you have to go to the outer edge of the next bead and that is why you pass the needle down through the second bead 

Ladder stitch - going to outer edge

  • pick up the next bead, hold the beads vertically side by side, pass the needle DOWN through the top of the previous bead and back UP through the bottom of the bead you added
  • as a consequence, you are forming a circle to attach each bead

Ladder stitch - adding a bead

ladder stitch - going to the edge

  • pick up the next bead, hold it side by side to the other beads and pass the needle UP through the bottom of the previous bead and back DOWN through the top of the bead you added

SEE - part 2

LEARN and CREATE – the flat brick stitch on a foundation of ladder stitch - part 2

CONTINUATION: the flat Brick Stitch

  • to summarize, depending the end position of your thread, you alternate and go down through the top and then up through the bottom OR up through the bottom and then down through the top
  • continue till you reach the desired width of your bracelet, in this case 7 beads
  • as you work with an odd number of beads, you end up with the tail thread facing down and the working thread facing up

Weaving instructions for the flat brick stitch:

  • round two: continue in color B, pick up a set of two beads and pass your needle beneath the thread in between the two beads below

Brick stitch - starting a row

  • pass your needle up the bottom of the second bead of the set you just added
  • note : you only add two beads at the initial of each round, 

Brick stitch - getting on top

  • pick up a bead and pass your needle beneath the thread connecting the two beads below

Brick stitch - adding a bead

  • pass your needle up the bottom the of bead you just added
  • add a bead, pass your needle beneath the thread connecting the beads below
  • tighten your thread, pass your needle up the bottom of the bead you added
  • continue till the end of the row
  • round three: turn your piece and continue in color C, pick up a set of two beads, pass your needle beneath the thread connecting the two beads below
  • pass your needle up the bottom of the second bead of the set and tighten your thread
  • continue adding one bead at a time till the end of the row
  • round four: turn your workpiece and continue in color B
  • round five: continue in color A

Brick stitch on top of ladder stitch

  • play with the stripe pattern and possibly widen or change the stripes

Brick stitch for starters

  • if you work with bigger beads, you may want to firm the edges of your workpiece by circling back through the first and second bead you added
  • have fun !

Choose your beads and findings @ http://dunebeads.com/en/delica-seed-beads-size-11-japan !

Do not forget: practice makes perfect. Happy day, see you soon!

 

LEARN and CREATE – the not so flat, flat Cellini bracelet - part 1

The flat Cellini stitch is nothing more than flat, even-count peyote, but with different bead sizes which will add a scalloped texture to your work and accentuate the diagonal movement in it. The design consists of small aba + large ABA waves mirroring each other.

flat Cellini

Challenge:

  • prior knowledge: flat even-count peyote 
  • with the change of direction at the end of each row comes a change in perspective of the color & size choice which may seem daunting at first
  • with a line-up of 10 beads at the start, the double pattern of embracing a central bead is always incomplete on one side and as a consequence with each odd row you try to complete the design aba + ABA

Supplies for a flat Cellini bracelet:

  • 11/0 seed beads in 2 colors: 11/0 color A and 11/0 color B (or small central bead); meaning color A embracing color B
  • 3x3 mm fire-polished beads (or large central bead)
  • 8/0 seed beads, which will embrace the 3x3 mm fire-polished bead 
  • JBB toggle, thread, scissors and beading mat.

Weaving instructions for the flat Cellini:

  • line up little heaps of beads in the sequence you want to maintain
  • leave about 40 cm tail thread so you may easily add your clasp afterwards

flat Cellini - row 1 and 2

  • set up row one and two: two 11/0 color A, two 11/0 color B, two 11/0 color A, two 8/0 and two 3 mm beads

flat Cellini - row 3

  • row three in regular even-count peyote: skip a 3 mm bead, add a 8/0, skip a 8/0 bead, add a 3 mm bead, skip a 11/0 A bead, add a 8/0, skip a 11/0 B bead, add a 11/0 color A, skip a 11/ A bead and add a 11/0 color B
  • you end up with 8/0, 3 mm, 8/0 + color A, color B on top = ABA + ab (a is missing) pattern
  • as a consequence, you have added a bead in the same color as the one you just went thru and will do so whenever you work towards the tail

flat Cellini - working towards tail

  • the moreover, you added a bead to each second bead of a pair and when you look back on your work you will see that the beads are lined up diagonally

SEE - part 2

LEARN and CREATE – the not so flat, flat Cellini bracelet - part 2

CONTINUATION: the flat Cellini

  • persevere as once you have finished the first four rounds, it will become easier
  • row four: continue regular peyote by adding to every second bead a bead in the same color as the one you want to go thru; for instance, you have to go thru a 11/0 B, you add a 11/0 B, you want to go thru a color A, you add a color A and so on
  • in short, you make the opposite color choice when you work away from the tail than when you work towards the tail; you pick up a bead in the same color as the one you will go thru

flat Cellini - working away from tail

**note, all even rows will be constructed in this way, to add a bead you look forwards to the color/size of the following bead**

  • row five: you recommence the "small" diagonal color scheme from the start (aba) by skipping a 8/0 and adding one 11/0 A, 

flat Cellini - row 5 - recommence aba

  • to continue row five you add a bead in the same color as the one you just left; for example, you come out of a 8/0, you add a 8/0, coming out of a 3 mm, add 3 mm and so on

***all odd rows are built in this way, to add a color/size you look backwards to the bead you left***

  • Do tighten your thread regularly as it will give you that curly shape you seek
  • row six: you want to go thru a 11/0 A, add a 11/0 A and continue ** … **
  • row seven: skip 11/0 A, add a new 11/0 B and continue *** … ***
  • row eight: add a 8/0, continue ** … **
  • row nine: add a 11/0 A (or the second a of the aba color scheme) … and … continue *** … ***

Flat Cellini Stitch

  • while your bracelet takes shape, the scalloped texture will appear more and more
  • finish by attaching a toggle clasp and enjoy your creation

Choose your beads and findings @ http://dunebeads.com/en/czech-fire-polished-round-beads !

Do not forget: practice makes perfect. Have fun, see you soon!

LEARN and CREATE – the CoCo-rico necklace and the eight-shape - part 1

Simple and playful, the CoCo-rico necklace is another example of the technique of crossing wires while creating an eight-shape. By alternating the color scheme after each intersection you also produce the illusion of winding the two wires or threads around each other; and of course, a shorter version will offer you a charming bracelet.

CoCo-rico necklace - river thu the woods

Challenge:

  • The change of direction of the wires in the intersections will definitely ask you to pay attention.

Supplies for the CoCo-rico necklace:

  • 6x8 mm Czech CoCo beads in two colors: CoCo A, CoCo B
  • 5x3 mm pinched Bicone beads
  • Delica size 11/0
  • polyethylene thread or fishing thread or FireLine
  • JBB toggle and crimp beads or crimp tubes
  • pliers, scissors and beading mat.

Weaving instructions for the CoCo-rico necklace:

  • cut off about 140 cm polyethylene thread, slide a part of the toggle to the middle and fold the thread in two
  • slide a crimp tube or crimp bead over both threads and attach the clasp
  • note: you will be working with the two threads
  • side one: string on 3 Delica's and 1 pinched Bicone

CoCo-rico necklace - start

  • side two: string on 3 Delica's and pass the thread in the opposite direction through the Pinch bead of side one

CoCo-rico - crossing 1

  • eight-shape *side one top eight: pick up 3 Delica's, 3 CoCo A and 3 Delica's

CoCo-rico - side 1, top eight

  • side two top eight: pick up 3 Delica's, 3 CoCo B and 2 Delica's 

CoCo-rico - side 2, top eight

  • and cross the wire by going in the opposite direction through the last Delica of side one

CoCo-rico - top eight

  • pull the two threads

CoCo-rico - crossing 2

  • eight-shape side one bottom eight: pick up 2 Delica's, 3 CoCo B and 3 Delica's and 1 pinched Bicone

CoCo-rico - side 1, bottom eight

SEE - part 2